It’s the trace going towards the mode button, so I’m pretty sure resistance won’t exactly be critical over a ~3mm gap, as long as it recognizes when the plunger button is pressed down.
It’s the trace going towards the mode button, so I’m pretty sure resistance won’t exactly be critical over a ~3mm gap, as long as it recognizes when the plunger button is pressed down.
Nah, no need for a new device, all the actual game controls actually work after I glued the crack and soldered bridge wires over all the broke copper traces.
The only button that doesn’t work is the Mode button, which swaps the D-Pad and left analog. Its default mode is the normal mode you’d expect anyways, so fixing the Mode button is totally optional.
It’s just a bit tempting to get the controller back 100% functional, but it’s not terribly important.
I was kind of curious to dabble around and learn ways to make conductive paint at home, and use the controller as a first test try.
crush up some graphite really finely in a mortar (from a good source, like the carbon rods in some batteries or soft pencil leads, as the hard ones contain clay, and also be prepared to spend a lot if you go the pencil lead route), mix with glue, play with ratios (the more graphite the better, but it might start cracking with too much graphite) and type of glue (elmers, superglue, epoxy, try to aim for something slightly flexible as tou mentioned it’s gonna be under stress)
but i’ll warn you that it’s gonna work kinda bad compared to finding where the carbon trace originates and soldering a wire there (there’s gotta be metal somewhere)